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Where should we look for our house and land in Wales?

Wales is the most secret of the four countries, and islands, that make up Britain and Ireland. 

Although the inhabitants of these islands know perfectly well who the Welsh are, it is clear that many English speakers overseas know little about Wales and its people.

As a courtesy to his readers, and the Welsh, and taking his life in his hands, he has taken the unusual step of attaching  a short history of the language question.

Wales is an attractive destination for self-sufficiency settlers, but there are problems too. You need to have an understanding of the issues to be able to consider Wales for your future.

England is further West than Wales, further East, further North and further South. One part of Wales is even known as "England beyond Wales."

But Wales is not England. Despite an association going back to the birth of England and almost total integration for hundreds of years, Wales is still very definitely Wales, and the Welsh almost always unmistakeably Welsh.

The legal system is identical to England and almost all institutions were shared until very recently.

There is now devolved government which may create some differences in rural matters.

Houses and land is cheaper than in England, this is especially so in the areas away from the border.

There are plenty of small-holdings and small farms in all areas, some are in relatively dry border areas and on good land, others in the west and north can be mountainous and very wet.

Wales is bounded on three sides by the sea, and by England to the East. The two main ports between Great Britain and Ireland are situated in Wales - Fishguard in the South and Holyhead in the North on Anglesey Island.

Road connections from England are good in the South, not so good in the North. The main route from London is by motorway crossing the Bristol Channel by bridge.

Strangers are always surprised to find just how close Cardiff is by road to London.

Elegant Cardiff

The big populations are in the south around Cardiff and towards Swansea. 

A century or more ago the large coal reserves drew people from the countryside. Coal mining has almost ceased, but the area remains industrial.

A smaller area of coal mining existed in the Northwest too.

The Cardiff area is overwhelmingly English speaking, as are the border areas and south Pembrokeshire around Milford Haven. South Pembrokeshire, in the extreme south-west has always been a stronghold of English. North Pembrokeshire, just across the main road is Welsh speaking.

Most of Wales is predominately very rural and very pretty too.

Everyone will speak English, of course, although the language of the home and much social life will be Welsh in the west. The towns will have a name in each language, neither will always be that easy to pronounce.

The villages, farms and houses will almost all have Welsh names. A few villages have biblical names such as Bethlehem.

In some areas, the people will count in English when speaking Welsh.

Oddly although virtually the only use of a Welsh word by the English is when commanding sheep-dogs, the Welsh speaker will invariably swear at a disobedient sheep dog in English.

An architectural tradition shared with neighbouring English counties.

The border areas are good smallholding country. It is a pretty, prosperous countryside with larger than average farms and farmhouses. Some of the small towns are delightful.

The soils are often good and the climate drier.

Prices in these areas approach English levels.

The Cumbrian mountains that run from north to south through Wales are higher in the north than in the south.

The north encompasses Snowdonia, a popular tourist destination.

Their are many smallholdings. Prices are much lower, but the soils and climate are generally poorer. Some areas are very wet.

It may be quite impossible to grow much in the way of fruit and slopes may be very steep.

Attractive stone houses in the mountains and west.

Wales is about water. It is everywhere in the form of the sea, the rivers and lakes. Even the place names often refer to the river or stream.

The west also has many smallholdings. It is generally a pastoral area although good soils can be found especially in the south.

Prices are again much lower than in England.

Village life in Wales is much more social than in England. Small shops, pubs and post offices remain open. Rural churchgoing is much more common.

The new arrival can expect to be thoroughly inspected by a succession of visitors coming to introduce themselves.

The visitors will entertain by ensuring that the incomer is fully briefed on the sins and transgressions of all their new neighbours; real or imagined.

The experience can be hugely entertaining. In some parts of Wales, the problem of a shortage of surnames is solved by the addition of the occupation "Jones the Post". In others, however, the particular Evans is distinguished from a hundred others, by the addition of the name of the farm.

Wales can really be hilarious on occasion. The people are talkative and gregarious. They live life with a gusto uncommon in England.

Don't get caught in the crossfire!
All rural communities everywhere tend to disputes, but language adds an extra piquancy.

The only real downside to buying a smallholding in Wales is the language question.

It is tempting for the incomer to believe that if they are polite and understanding on the issue, all will be well.

Indeed it may be, but the control of the situation may lie outside their own hands.

The rural Welsh do have a habit of scrapping amongst themselves and engaging in litigation. It is all too easy for the new boy or girl on the block to get caught in the cross-fire.

A situation that is capable of easy solution in other places can quickly escalate.

Make sure you have read history of the language question and also do some reading yourself on the issues.

To summarise, Wales is a real possibility for  smallholding. Prices are usually very low by English  standards, the landscape is often very attractive.

But do not take the Estate Agent's confidence that there are no problems in the particular areas as reliable.

Remember not to be seduced by scenery, or seller.

Make a point of seeking out other incomers who are not selling and have a confidential chat with them.

You can return to Moving Away or go to England, Scotland or Ireland

"searching wales"

whilst staying at home at

 the remote Hangman's Cottage, just to the south of Misery Corner.

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